Tuesday, August 5, 2008
Celebrities Use Driclor
I thought we were kidnapped by guerrillas in Bolivia, eh? But no, we are still alive and well, and free to roam on piattisimo salt desert of Uyuni.
Too many things have accumulated in the past four days, from the point of cyclists, tourists and curiosity 'social-ethnographic potervele to tell. So I will limit myself to update you on the events of today or a little more '.
First, we have again a camera (actually two). However I fear that it will 'can post photos until' we remain on Cordillera, which means until 20 August, at least. On the other hand are already 'quite surprised that you can connect to the Internet from almost any place where we went, despite the lack of water (not just the drinking water) and there is no heating. We
to Uyuni, a former mining town, a former railway town, now City 'tour, all built around the executive's tour of the salt desert. For explanations about what is reference to the wikipedia entry:
http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salar_de_Uyuni
We came here with a trip to troubled, but beautiful, about 6 hours by bus. We placed in the first hostel we could find: it seemed cute and fairly well organized (and costs 3 € per person per night, being quite expensive). Only the next morning we discovered that the rooms are housed in a warehouse, lifting of drywall partitions. The look and feel 'really nice, except that on the night the temperature in the room and' down to 3 ยบ C. It would not be a problem, if one expects it. So today we bought two blankets, hat and socks.
breakfast this morning and 'however was good and plentiful. We toured the streets of the town, but 'has nothing to say. It 's a stretch of cuadra, all the same. We also visited the station, because here goes one of the most railways' highest in the world. Because of a strike, however, 'the railway' locked. Too bad 'cause we were hoping to avoid a return trip by bus, by train REPLACING.
We then left for a tour by jeep in the Salar. You ', this goes a bit' against the ethics of travel and neither is close to genius in the car for a day. Unfortunately, however, 'is the only chance' to visit this wonderful place, and at the end do not be sorry.
The tour begins with a visit to the train cemetery, where they have accumulated a quantity 'amazing locomotives that were providing service on the line joining Uyuni to Chile, founded in 1845. The locomotives have been partially removed, lacking all rods and cylinders, and the boilers are been emptied from the tube bundles, perhaps to recover valuable steel. Ok, that's 'some consideration' by engineers. The locomotives, exposed to wind and high concentration of salt have been completely eroded, taking strange shapes, twisted. By adding the white border on one side of the expanse of salt, and the mountains on the other hand, the place becomes surreal, a set which I'd love to Simon: I will show 'pictures to return and if you need an escort to bring here some models, I am available (no Damiano ...).
Then there were a couple of steps aimed at Western tourists spiumaggio: we knew that would not be missed, so we digertie patiently. We have taken to a village where they sold artesania s that we feel were made in China, also because 'the same as those we have seen the market in Tupiza and Uyuni ... however, we saw a few minutes of a football match played on sand with two local teams. Then we went to hotel rooms, which reminded me a lot of the Ice Hotel in Sweden. Belline statues of salt (with blade, sphinx, the miners of salt), but the structure under construction was a bit 'out of tune compared to the pure white surroundings.
Finl we headed to 'Isla del pescado and this will prove' the highlight of the day. A 50-60 meter hill that rises on the white expanse surroundings. It seems indeed an island and, arrvandoci off-road, it's like entering a port. The island is home to lots of cactus, as high as 9 meters, and up to 1200 years old. E 'kept very well, very clean and this pleases us, because of all the nearby places of interest so far we have found large expanses of plastic bags and bottles. It 's a bit sad, but knowing the problems they have here, and' too hard to make it a sin to someone if you do not have water at home, do not you worry about where does the plastic bag that you throw on the floor .. . However
sensation and 'to be suspended in the clouds. The dazzling white that stretches for hundreds of kilometers linear (or tens of thousands of miles square, if you prefer ...) has the ability 'to send you into a trance. The mountains on the horizon mirages that are suspended, the play of light and shadow created by the grotesque shapes of the volcanic rock of the island, the silence (even the hum of the terrain is lost in this immensity '), supporting you in a' other dimension. You drain the mind. At least I have this effect. The
chofer prepares us for a lunch with Milan (sara 'the 20th since we are here, but' good) plain pasta (which we use as bread) and vegetables. So 'we talk with our fellow tour: a Swedish couple in less than two months has shot almost all the states of South America, two Irish girls and an English girl and that 'the road for almost seven months, and now about to return home. All arriving by bus directly from La Paz, and leave today. We understand that our journey and 'completely different from their own. The bicycle allows you to have a knowledge of the territory and situations. At first glance it seems that they are collecting beautiful casrtoline from exotic places, but without having the frame. On the contrary one might think that we're focusing a bit 'too much on the frame, making 6-hour bicycle to visit a city' in 1 hour. In reality 'of our journey and the beautiful' own time spent in the saddle, and we have realized today, feeling a desire to start pedaling.
E, if we had a little 'more' time ... the crossing of the salar cycling was a great undertaking ... there remains in mind for some future trip!
returning from 'Isla del pescado we stopped at a Ojo del Salar, a rift in the crust of salt springs where water and gas (oxygen according to the guide, but all our knowledge geomorphological not allow us to believe We do not know that gas is).
Returning to Uyuni at sunset, it seems a bit 'more' of what is beautiful '. We welcome our fellow travelers and make a tour of the city '.
The covered market and 'a punch in the stomach. And I say this having in mind the Chinese markets, Poles and Malaysian. Pets squoiati and piled on the floor. Heads with bulging eyes staring at you, hanging quarters and covered with rags. I am convinced that the smell is bearable only due to the cold. The side with the spices and fruits and vegetables and 'rather more' accessible to our eyes of westerners, colorful and slightly aromatic.
Now we're ready to go to dinner, since yesterday we have sold in the warmth of a small fire and we had dinner in a local tourism far, tonight we typically place a Bolivian, following locals.
Greetings to all,
ENRICO
Friday, August 1, 2008
Authentic 8ball Leather Jackets
Preface: Sorry for the brevity ', any typos and
rambling sentences, but they are in a smelly garage music
argentina ball. I also like the place 'cause there are a lot of
local boys, but not exactly according to the concentration
the story ...
We did it!
Yesterday we passed the Abra del Condor in 4000 with only 3 hours and 40
ride uphill! Now that we have done I would say that it was
nothing really hard. And at the same time, after the experience of
today that I will go 'to tell you briefly, do the following
reflections.
Fatigue and 'a means to achieve satisfaction and knowledge of
own limits and the surrounding environment. The bike in this sense and '
half eccezinale that allows you to "get" really
in the landscape and to find points of contact with people who live there. I do not know how many
Hola! and Suerte! we have said in recent days.
And every time we put a foot on the ground to rest, drink, eat, there '
always someone who wants to know where we come from we do here, so
. It 's great! Apart from the various waving and exhortations
received during the climb, we also caught two applause: a
a whole bus that has passed down, as we boarded, and the other
a group of Argentines on top of the pass ...
Given our state, many feel they offer us to eat, drink
, tips ... so 'also on top of the pass we dined with empanadas
dell'aplauso offered by Argentine tourists. Fortunately!
Why 'not found' s nothing to eat, and give the bottom of the
risrva of sweets and cereal bars.
The view from the past is' great, but not much different from those in which
now we're getting used to. The real excitement is in the environment, in the boundless
(valleys, mountains), in
power of the elements (sun and wind!), The incredible colors of the rocks
, the charm of the thorny plants that can grow anywhere
(without water and 30C excursions between day and night). E
say that the pair of condors flying over us (whetting her beak ...)
while we go? They are really big and have long fins
flight feathers.
And as we go down, a herd (or flock? Waiting for answers ...) of
vicunas joins us in the race and we cross the street, jumping
agility 'on a rocky terrain and thorny for a man and' almost
impassable. New and strong emotion. Unfortunately
hole once and we have to stop half an hour to fix
rubber. No problem, just that we hoped to arrive at km40
where there is food for lunch time (within 14),
you arrive too late and we eat nuts and candy bars.
Meanwhile, the road becomes more and more 'hard. Yes, a
rail with dirt fords, and hard, but stony, with bikes loaded
and 3500m and 'much more' hard climb continues. And then we are a bit
'Stanchini ... The last few miles before Route 9 (asphalt)
are all mental and head down a ride after another, without
think of anything (or thinking about it all?).
At the junction we find that Abra Pampa, our destination, and '
definitely more' distant than expected (62km would be others).
This situation has' already 'checked more' times: One of the most 'difficult
of this journey and' the lack of precise information on
shares, road types and distances. And it 's useless to ask the local
have no idea of \u200b\u200bthe profile, and give random numbers (Abra Pampa and'
found at altitudes between 4040 and 2700m ...),
distances are given in terms of hours car or bus, and even here, the bike is useless
(by car you go to 80km / h, up hills, but
bike?). The only information, timely and valuable, we
come from Italy, and chat with Mariano Agnese. But
any changes to the route and set 'a leap in the dark.
This situation has two consequences:
1) must always have a supply (of energy or food and water) to face the street or climb
more;
2) and 'all over' adventurous!
In this case we had (as you know) supply of food and water.
So we planted the tent at 3500m, watching a fantastic sunset
to 360 degrees on the mountain range. The pure air, even
a cloud, the wind stops ... An unforgettable spectacle.
Within 30 minutes after sunset, the temperature rose from 25 to 5 degrees
, and the night will go down 'to -5. The fresh feel in
tent is amply compensated by the spectacular sky
(australe!), and Damian also saw two shooting stars. I do not even
a ... sin 'cause I had a couple of wishes to express! Now I'm definitely
going crazy for the music of Argentina. Then there
greet you and leave you with curiosity 'and how' was the trip of
today. I tell you only that it 'was more' hard yesterday, and at least
equally impressive. We are in Abra Pampa, and the country seems
as a possible human outpost on the surface of the moon ...
Hello,
ENRICO
PS: Tomorrow we arrive at the border ... maybe ... if you will want to Aeolus' ...
PS2: the camera and 'lost. I repeat. The machine
camera there 'more'. Do not despair, we clearly
solutions.
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
Black Scabs On Nipples That Hurt
... and so 'yesterday afternoon, we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn ... then, being in the tropics, now Bermuda shorts, flip flops and cocktails lying on a beach? I think not!
not have time to write much but I want to warn you of what 'we are going to do. We are in a small village 52km from Humauaca, called Iruya, reachable only 40km of dirt road from a pass at 4100m. The country 'in 2800. The atmosphere is' magical, we just watched the sunset from a rocky outcrop overlooking the houses. Many children on the streets acciotolate playing, mules as a means of locomotion. Crumbling houses with courtyards, thatch and corrugated iron, a few stunted seedling. Remember that here and 'winter and now we are around 10C, but the night goes below zero. Today we arrived at the bus (that means!), Loaded with bikes on the roof, with all fingers crossed 'cause you do not bend the disc, do not break the derailleurs, spokes and rims are not strocessero ... There 'was really good.
Tomorrow, pero ', come back with our legs around 1300m in altitude to get to 4100m (and short of breath, I assure you!). Indoor climbing there are still about 20km of dirt road downhill, with 35kg of bags that are quite challenging (we already have 'risked some flight ...). Then we still have 300m in altitude up to 15km to get to Abra Pampa 3400m, where we will sleep. Let's start with 4.5 liters of water per person (wind and sun are duds), and if something goes wrong (or if we make it ...) pitched his tent on the street. At night we are at 3400m-7C, but we are prepared.
Commeto the opening picture: despite the apparent thinness of magiamo taste and regularity '... I write mainly for mothers, aunts and several female relatives who may worry about. Note
my orange jersey Sumbersible Grundfos Motors - Newmar Team ... Finally
and 'a must and a big thanks to Mariano Agnese without their timely and valuable advice for sure we would not have gotten this far. They are fantastic places, but very difficult to visit, especially for two passengers on a bicycle. You can find their site in the list on the right is called Patagonia Biking: organize trips to Argentina (Both here in Patagonia, in the northwest) and Tibet / Mongolia, ... Who would want to try to contact them and tell us that we send him! (It 's not necessary to bring all the weight on the bike: they organize trips to the van after ...)
do not know when we'll hear again: finding a place with the Internet becomes more and more' difficult, and the phone just stopped working Skip to left. Perhaps when we are in La Quiaca, two days before crossing the border with Bolivia, who knows' ... However
be patient and look at the blog every now and then!
hug you all,
ENRICO
Sandra PS: We have a stock of Dulce de Lece to feed it with regularity '!
PS Susanna: pedal, pedal ... and 'amazing to think the way that we still have to do! It helps us a feeling of freedom ', to be able to sleep when we sleep and eat when we're hungry ... Then next year you come, too? We have to decide where!
PS Aunt Zeta: a few cats here, but loooong hairy ... I picture?